So who, in this country, is admired for their skill in menu writing? She must have done it 12 years ago, when I started cooking there, and it made me cry. She would sit in the restaurant and write the menu every day. All the chefs wanted to be the one who sat down and wrote it with her. It was a huge privilege. How big is the asparagus? Rose was a genius and her genius was in the detail.
The tiny changes she would make elevated what we were doing there. This is partly why I love menus. They are the portal through which I can reach the soul of the chef. But Stephen Harris pointed out something else as well. If you showed me past menus from The Sportsman I could tell you the week of the year in which they were served.
Menus are about a particular day in a particular place. Cooking with laverbread reminds me of what it feels like to be by the sea, what it feels like to wish for elsewhere, how it feels to return with my heart held out…. We have an established team but are always open to new collaborations. If you have a story to tell, please send your idea and portfolio to editorial atthetable. Please email info atthetable. If you need a product by a specific date or want your order to be trackable, please email info atthetable.
The Tables of Joy by Jessica Barksdale Inclán
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The Joy of Menus
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How the Table of Joy Works for Basic Maths
Only in a hoped-for heaven. This poem ups the ante. To me it says: you better be on the watch for love and joy and not disregard them. So, if you do, cherish them for as long as you can. This poem stresses agency. Calls for wakefulness to joy. And reminds us: Give in to it. There are plenty of lives and whole towns ready to be destroyed or about to be. She cites the case of a man who bottled-up his joy with being with his wife because of fear she might die.
Then she did. From cancer.
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